JMM × Haider Ackermann | The Form of MELCHIOR col. VANTA and the Designer’s Journey

JACQUES MARIE MAGE by HAIDER ACKERMANN

JACQUES MARIE MAGE (JMM) is an eyewear brand founded in Los Angeles in 2014. It is known for its frames, which are three-dimensionally carved from thick materials, and its limited-edition craftsmanship. The MELCHIOR col.VANTA introduced here is a pair from a special collection created in collaboration with fashion designer Haider Ackermann.

The elongated square shape, polished black front, and metal temple decorations that stand out when they catch the light. MELCHIOR reflects Ackermann's sensibility, honed by meticulously refining the contours and textures of clothing. We will explore the design of this model and the finish of VANTA while tracing the career of the man behind it.

Who is Haider Ackermann?

Haider Ackermann is a French designer born in Bogotá, Colombia. He grew up in several countries in Africa and Europe and studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium. He has presented collections in Paris through his eponymous brand.

What stands out in his clothing is the combination of sharp tailoring and soft fabric that drapes along the body. A neat jacket paired with a deep V-neckline. Lustrous fabric accented with brushed material. While emphasizing clean lines, he also values how the wearer moves and how their skin appears.

Even in this photo from Fall/Winter 2015, his characteristics are evident. Amidst clothing centered on black, the deeply open neckline, fine dots, and white stitching each create a different line. Even with a limited color palette, he creates focal points through edge treatment and differences in material. This approach is also interesting when examining the planes and decorations of the black frames.

Awards and brands he has worked with

In 2004, he received the Swiss Textiles Award. In 2010, he served as a guest designer at Pitti W in Florence, presenting menswear. His subsequent work expanded into menswear, haute couture, and sportswear.

Own brand	Presented collections in Paris as HAIDER ACKERMANN. Pursued tailoring, draping, and combinations of different materials.
Berluti 2016–2018	Served as Creative Director. Created menswear collections for the Parisian maison whose origins lie in shoemaking.
FILA 2022	Presented a collaboration collection at a show in Manchester.
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2023	Served as a guest designer for the maison's haute couture collection.
Canada Goose Appointed in 2024	Appointed as the brand's first Creative Director. Created the Snow Goose collection and others.
TOM FORD Appointed in 2024	Oversees the fashion sector, including menswear, womenswear, accessories, and eyewear. Presented his first collection in March 2025.

Career history is based on official announcements and publicly available materials as of September 2026. Main sources are listed at the end of the article.

Couture work shown at Jean Paul Gaultier

In particular, Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2023 is a collection worth seeing to understand Ackermann's approach to clothing. As a guest designer invited each season, he created the maison's haute couture.

Below is the official show video from the brand. You can also check the way the fabric drapes and the silhouette when walking, which is difficult to understand from still images alone.

Video: Jean Paul Gaultier Official. Watch on YouTube / View official LOOK.

Where did the collaboration with JMM begin?

According to JMM's official interview, Ackermann first became aware of the brand when he saw someone wearing sunglasses in a cafe. He says that when he later asked a friend about the striking glasses they were wearing, he heard the same JMM name. His interest in the glasses he saw repeatedly led to a dialogue with the brand.

What he appreciated was that every line and detail was carefully considered. On the other hand, he says he has a freer, more relaxed sensibility. Adding Ackermann's playfulness to precise frame making. What was born from that relationship is "JACQUES MARIE MAGE by HAIDER ACKERMANN".

The core consists of three models. The elongated square MELCHIOR in acetate, the BALTHAZAR combining a round front with thin titanium temples, and the linear GASPARD using beta-titanium. While changing materials and shapes, each has a different expression.

In the official campaign, Lauren Hutton was photographed by Steven Klein. Even in an outfit using a hat, shirt, and tie, the elongated contour of MELCHIOR is clearly visible. It is a LOOK that conveys the presence of the front, which does not get buried even in a fully dressed style.

Looking at MELCHIOR col.VANTA from the details

Elongated contour and browline cutting

The first impression of MELCHIOR is determined by its square shape with reduced vertical width. The lens width is 54mm, and the lens height is 32mm. The contour extending to the left and right neatly tightens the eye area.

Furthermore, the upper part of the front features a cut that drops a large plane. When light hits from above, a thin highlight runs along the polished surface. The black contour from the front and the three-dimensionality seen from an angle. It is designed so that you can enjoy both.

The material is 10mm thick plant-derived acetate fabric. The front is carved from it and made in Japan. 10mm indicates the thickness of the fabric used, not that all parts of the finished frame have the same thickness.

VANTA's black changes expression when seen from the side

VANTA combines a polished black front with two-layer temples that are clear gray on the outside and black on the inside. From the front, it looks like a powerful black, but when it catches light from an angle or from the side, transparency and the core metal line become visible.

The metal decoration on the temple is a dedicated design with a nautical motif. This is also unified in glossy black. It does not make the bright metal color stand out too much, but makes the surface reflection and thin grooves stand out.

The core metal has a silver palladium finish. The hinges use a dedicated 7-piece hinge with a hairline design. When you compare the black decoration on the outside, the fine metal parts on the inside, and the transparent acetate, you can see that the finish is changed for each part.

ULTRA BLACK MIRROR lenses, and limited production of 450

The lenses use ULTRA BLACK MIRROR. The deep tone and mirror reflection go well with the glossy black front. With a 2-curve lens, the back surface is coated with an anti-reflective coating.

VANTA is limited to a worldwide production of 450 pairs. In addition to the collaboration-exclusive signature and metal decorations, a box set is also prepared. From the python-patterned exterior, case, cleaning cloth, commemorative silk scarf, to the letterpress certificate, the design of the collection is used in parts other than the glasses.

MELCHIOR col.VANTA Specifications

Collection	JACQUES MARIE MAGE by HAIDER ACKERMANN
Model / Color	MELCHIOR / VANTA
Country of Production / Production Quantity	Japan / Limited to 450 worldwide
Size	54□18–142 Front total width 145mm, lens height 32mm (official published value)
Frame	Uses 10mm thick plant-derived acetate fabric. Two-layer temples, dedicated 7-piece hinge
Standard Lens	ULTRA BLACK MIRROR / 2-curve / Back surface anti-reflective coating / UV cut Visible light transmission rate 6%, category 4. Not suitable for road use or driving

The effect of tightening the eye area when wearing black sunglasses. MELCHIOR col.VANTA makes that impression clearer with its elongated contour and fine beveling. From the decorations visible from the side to the signature on the inside, it is finished as a pair that makes you want to pick it up and check it out.